Mount Everest route reopens after 3-week deadlock, Icefall doctors resume climb toward Camp II

KATHMANDU: A major breakthrough has been reported on the world’s highest peak, Mount Everest, as a weeks-long route blockage above base camp has finally cleared, allowing climbers and route-setting teams to resume progress during the critical spring climbing season.

After being stalled for nearly three weeks due to a massive icefall obstruction in the Khumbu Icefall, the elite team of “Icefall Doctors” has now moved forward from Camp I toward Camp II, reopening the path for hundreds of climbers awaiting ascent.

Deadlock in the Khumbu Icefall Ends

The obstruction, caused by a huge collapsed ice mass (serac), had blocked the route between Everest Base Camp and Camp I—one of the most technically dangerous sections of the climb. The debris was too large to remove manually, forcing teams to wait for natural melting.

“The deadlock in the Khumbu Icefall has now opened,” said Rishiram Bhandari, confirming that route construction has resumed. “Icefall Doctors are advancing toward Camp II, which is positive news for the entire expedition community.”

These highly skilled Sherpa climbers are responsible for fixing ropes, placing ladders, and establishing a safe climbing route for international expeditions attempting Everest.

Government and Stakeholders Mobilize Joint Effort

According to Nepal Mountaineering Association President Fur Gelje Sherpa, the blockage occurred even before reaching Camp I, in a section widely known for extreme risk.

In response, the Government of Nepal authorized a joint mobilization of route-setting teams, including support from the Sagarmatha Pollution Control Committee (SPCC) and mountaineering operators, to accelerate route clearance and rope fixing.

A ministerial decision on Baisakh 11 (late April 2026) enabled additional teams to assist in securing the route across Everest, Lhotse, and Nuptse—three major peaks that share the same base camp logistics.

Climbing Season Back on Track

The reopening of the route is crucial as the Everest spring climbing window—typically from early to mid-May—approaches. This period offers the most stable weather conditions for summit attempts.

Hundreds of climbers, Sherpa guides, and support staff are already stationed at Everest Base Camp, undergoing acclimatization and pre-climb training.

According to the Department of Tourism Nepal, this season has seen strong global participation:

• 425 climbers from 42 expeditions have permits for Everest, including 97 women
• 111 climbers from 9 expeditions for Lhotse
• 42 climbers from 4 expeditions for Nuptse

In total, Nepal has issued 996 climbing permits for 29 mountains so far this season, highlighting the country’s continued dominance in global adventure tourism and Himalayan expeditions.

Base Camp Operations Intensify

To manage the growing influx, the Department of Tourism has established a field office at Everest Base Camp to monitor expeditions, ensure regulatory compliance, and facilitate coordination among stakeholders.

Additionally, the government has deployed 60 liaison officers to oversee climbing operations, safety, and environmental standards.

Global Significance for Adventure Tourism

The reopening of the Everest route removes a critical bottleneck that had raised concerns among international expedition operators, travel agencies, and global mountaineering communities.

As one of the most searched global adventure travel destinations, Mount Everest plays a vital role in Nepal’s tourism economy, attracting high-value foreign currency inflows and supporting thousands of jobs in trekking, logistics, and hospitality.

With the route now operational, the 2026 Everest climbing season is expected to proceed as planned, restoring confidence among climbers and reinforcing Nepal’s position as the epicenter of high-altitude adventure tourism.